I had to tie the horse and go in on foot. Too much for some, who have given up the struggle on the highways in exchange for an entirely different kind of vacation out in the open, on their own feet, following the quiet trail through forest and mountains, bedding down at evening under the stars, when and where they feel like it, at a time when the Industrial Tourists are still hunting for a place to park their automobiles. In a dank and shady place he found a cluster of plants with large white trumpetlike flowers the color of moonlight. We have no fear of human pollution, for the nearest upstream town is Moab, pop. In the afternoons of July and August we may get thundershowers but an hour after the storms pass the surface of the desert is again bone dry. The channel of the stream meanders from one wall to the opposite and within the first mile I have to wade it a dozen times. That crystal water flows toward me in shimmering S-curves, looping quietly over shining pebbles, buff-colored stone and the long sleek bars and reefs of rich red sand, in which glitter grains of mica and pyrite fools gold. [9] The Heat of Noon: Rock and Tree and Cloud describes the intensity of the summer months in the park, and the various ways in which animals and humans have tried to survive and adapt in those conditions. In addition to their pioneering migrations, full of unusual heroism and examples of fortitude (e.g., Brigham Young and his seventeen wives), the Mormons deserve respect for settling the most rugged, difficult as well as spectacular, terrain in the West. In this wilderness of naked rock burnt to auburn or buff or red by ancient fires there is no vision more pleasing to the eyes and more gratifying to the heart than the translucent acid green (bright gold in autumn) of this venerable tree. Glimpses of weird humps of pale rock on either side, like petrified elephants, dinosaurs, stone-age hobgoblins. But they are home-loving insects; once over the bridge and away from the slimy little creek you leave them behind. (. Many of the chapters also engage in lengthy critiques of modern Western civilization, United States politics, and the decline of America's natural environment. Our, "Sooo much more helpful thanSparkNotes. Anyway, theres no turning back now. A few flies are already circling above the dark shape on the stretcher. It wont hurt them to work off a little office fat; itll do them good, help take their minds off each others wives, and give them a chance to get out of reach of the boss a blessing for all concerned. On Friday I inspect the campgrounds, haul firewood, and distribute the toilet paper. The flowers that graced the red dunes in April and May have withered now, all gone to seed except for a few drooping sunflowers. Moon-Eye blinked his good eye once, twitched his hide and kept watching me as all around us, along the wash and on the canyon walls and in the air the desert birds and desert bugs resumed their inexplicable careers. Coming from a tradition which honors sharing and mutual aid above private interest, the Navajo thinks it somehow immoral for one man to prosper while his neighbors go without. There are times in this hot and arid place when my thirst becomes so intense I cannot seem to drink any liquid fast enough to quench it. You can read the details below. Print Word PDF This section contains 617 words (approx. He has troubles, God knows. maybe of exultation. The sun is pitiless, the smell is worse, and the flies are worst of all, buzzing in swarms around the putrid mass in the rubber sack. And risky. Revealing my desert thoughts to a visitor one evening, I was accused of being against civilization, against science, against humanity. Have some more water, I said. So Id wait, too, wait for sundown before starting the march home, the. Should have brought tennis shoes. I watch them for hour after hour with the naked eye and with binoculars and never see either hawk or eagle stoop and strike at such a time. Be reassured, it is not so. Northeast the sky is vaguely overcast, a pallid gray. On my first walk down into Havasupai Canyon, which is a branch of the Grand Canyon, never mind exactly where, I took with me only a quart of water, thinking that would be enough for a mere fourteen-mile downhill hike on a warm day in August. Thats all right, Viviano, he said, well take a break now. Their living marvels must remain forever unknown, to be drowned beneath the dead water of the coming reservoir, buried for centuries under mud. Then something was happening. There was the clear shallow stream, the green wiregrass standing. Water rises slowly from these springs and flows in little rills over bare rock, over and under sand, into miniature fens of wire grass, rushes, willow and tamarisk. He tramped bitterly, soggily, toward the mens room and disappeared in a dim, rancid, yellowish light. None of these proposals are entirely devoid of merit and at least one of them birth control is obviously essential though not in itself sufficient if poverty is to be alleviated among the Navajo Indians. We all go back the thirty-five miles to the highway and from there by separate ways to our separate places, my brother south to Blanding, myself to the Arches. We are free as we go stumbling and sweating along to say exactly what we please, without fear of offending. Creating notes and highlights requires a free LitCharts account. The defile turned and twisted like a snake under overhanging and interlocking walls so high, so close, that for most of the way I could not see the sky. (Why not? With good reason; they had much to be fearful of, the swine. Im sorry, he said, but its a horrible way to die. What else about him? I stop at one of the largest of these pools, undress and plunge in. To my amazement the stone flies true (as if guided by a Higher Power) and knocks the cottontail head over tincups, clear out from under the budding blackbush. This wont do. A small wooden sign guides him off the highway and onto a rough dirt track. The next morning, after watching his first, breathtaking sunrise, Abbey wonders whether appearances equal reality. A few more steps and I reach the snowfield, which extends for a thousand feet, bell-curved, up through the couloir toward the summit. The red nose, the gray hair, the yellow teeth and fingers, a white stubble of whiskers on his bony jaw, his leathery flat cheeks he looked like an old horse all right but still tough and viable. One egg or two? hell ask at breakfast time, when you are hungry enough to eat the skin off a bear. Bad Bunny fever has reached Coachella, and there's no going back. Is that a fair criterion of beauty? When morning came he got up and tried to go on but could not walk very far. Much too close, Id say. There was none. Mostly I live out of it., You must get awfully lonesome way out here., No, myself. (They laugh; they all think Im kidding. Staying clear of the main current, drifting slowly past the shore, I paddle in circles and wait for Ralph to catch up. He crumples, theres the usual gushing of blood, etc., a brief spasm, and then no more. An ice axe now would be the thing; I could squat on my heels and glissade down the snowfield in good form, controlling direction and velocity by dragging the blade in the snow. Imperturbable as the river itself, tranquil as the sky overhead, he puffs on his corncob pipe, limping back and forth between the truck and the launching point with canned goods and bedrolls. No wonder the Authorities are so anxious to smother the wilderness under asphalt and reservoirs. Abbeys joking with his readers when he renames the desert after himself. There is no trouble: getting up proves to be no harder than coming down, though we do find it necessary to add a little water to the radiator when we arrive on top. But Havasu. For instance, hes afraid of having a heart attack, falling off the horse, dying there on the sand, under the sun, among the flies and weeds and indifferent cattle. But soon, he discovers the rich animal life around his trailer, even domesticating a friendly gopher snake. Out of a tangle of poison-tolerant weeds the water drips into a basin of mud and sand, flows from there over sandstone and carries its potent solutions into the otherwise harmless waters of the creek. He saw the horizon swing in a queer way far up on his right, and to the left, where the earth had been a moment before, was only the sky, a few stars, the tranquil moon floating far below. A human shout reaches our ears from the west shore. I open the switch, adjust the choke, engage the crank and heave it around. The gopher snake and I get along nicely. Good, I said but something in my face must have given me away; Viviano laughed, spurred his horse and dashed off singing. Close to the river now, down in the true desert again, the heat begins to come through; we peel off our shirts before going on. Id sooner exchange ideas with the birds on earth than learn to carry on intergalactic communications with some obscure race of humanoids on a satellite planet from the world of Betelgeuse. This too will be replaced. No canteen or water bag in sight. When we think of rock we usually think of stones, broken rock, buried under soil and plant life, but here all is exposed and naked, dominated by the monolithic formations of sandstone which stand above the surface of the ground and extend for miles, sometimes level, sometimes tilted or warped by pressures from below, carved by erosion and weathering into an intricate maze of glens, grottoes, fissures, passageways, and deep narrow canyons. The thought of the long walk back to my saddle pony, the long ride back to the pickup truck, made my heart sink. We haven't found any reviews in the usual places. These are natural arches, holes in the rock, windows in stone, no two alike, as varied in form as in dimension. It includes the motel and restaurant owners, the gasoline retailers, the oil corporations, the road-building contractors, the heavy equipment manufacturers, the state and federal engineering agencies and the sovereign, all-powerful automotive industry. At this hour, sitting alone at the focal point of the universe, surrounded by a thousand square miles of largely uninhabited no-mans-land or all-mens-land I cannot seriously be disturbed by any premonitions of danger to my vulnerable wilderness or my all-too-perishable republic. Even if this were not the case I have personal convictions to uphold. I urge them again; grudgingly they come up. Falling asleep, I see a handful of stars blinking through a break in the racing clouds. In the morning before breakfast we dump our gear loosely into the boats and paddle on up the canyon until we reach shallow water. Thus we meditate upon the strangers death. The cactus flowers are all much alike, varying only in color within and among the different species. Despite its clarity and simplicity, however, the desert wears at the same time, paradoxically, a veil of mystery. He held himself rigid against the convulsions that swelled with a droning murmur through his body. An owl hooted softly; and little hog-nosed bats zigzagged through the twilight. Next, charge a good stiff admission fee; you cant let people in free; that leads to socialism and regimentation. But at the moment, in the sparkling air and brilliant sunlight of the Utah desert, bad news seems far away. On the local level, for example, the first thing that the superintendent of a new park can anticipate being asked, when he attends his first meeting of the areas Chamber of Commerce, is not Will roads be built? but rather When does construction begin? and Why the delay?, (The Natural Money-Mint. One two three four small gray birds fluttered out of the willows beside the stream and flew in circles to a perch high on the canyon wall. Exploring a side canyon off Havasu Canyon one day, I was unable to resist the temptation to climb up out of it onto what corresponds in that region to the Tonto Bench. Squatting on the shore of the stream, I dip my cupped hands into the water and sample a little. At noon he found water. Happy now, greatly relieved, I recall for Watermans edification a few appropriate lines from Burns: Now weve got a siphon, two feet long. Next I unloaded the horse, smacked her on the rump and sent her back to the village. Ralph awakes, stirred to life by the aroma of food, takes a bath in the river, combs and pomades his hair, his long black evil sheepherders beard. Man is a gregarious creature, we are told, a social being. I was still young myself, or thought I was, enjoying good health, not yet quite to the beginning of the middle of the journey. His left arm hung limply from a dislocated shoulder. I stirred myself, got up painfully, and stepped out of the wreckage of the juniper. ), Where you keep these here Arches anyway?, What arches? We start walking down the canyon. Then I went home to the trailer, taking a shortcut over the bluffs. The buttes, pinnacles and fins in the Windows area bend and undulate beyond the middle ground like a painted backdrop stirred by a draft of air. Tukuhnikivats, the Island in the Desert Episodes and Visions Terra Incognita: Into the Maze Bedrock and Paradox The First Morning Solitaire The Serpents of Paradise Cliffrose and Bayonets Polemic: Industrial Tourism and The National Parks Rocks Cowboys and Indians Cowboys and Indians: Part II Similar Items The little cups on the wind gauge are barely turning, but this breath of air, such as it is, comes from the southwest. Afterwards I hoist the Stars and Stripes to the top of the flagpole up at the entrance station. There they wait, day after day, week after week, in patient spadefoot torpor, perhaps listening we can imagine for the sound of raindrops pattering at last on the earthen crust above their heads. You damned stupid harrr I croaked, and gave it up. I stop to orient myself and to look for the best route to the top. Good luck to all. Filling the canteens, I cache them nearby, undress and wade into the water. etc. Married, he has three children; the oldest boy attends the University of Utah. The three men thought that was pretty funny. It takes us only a few minutes to roll up our sacks and pile our gear into the vehicle; a light rain sizzling in the fire encourages our movements. Give the kids a break too, let them out of the car, let them go scrambling over the rocks hunting for rattlesnakes and scorpions and anthills yes sir, let them out, turn them loose; how dare you imprison little children in your goddamned upholstered horseless hearse? Capable of taking care of themselves, and with the means to do it, it is not surprising that they question the justice of being taxed by the Federal Government in order to help support the teeming proletariat (literally and etymologically the reproducers) of cities which to some of these independent people seem as remote and foreign as Calcutta or Cairo. The very names are lovely chalcedony, carnelian, jasper, Chrysoprase and agate. Specifically, his search for a wild horse in the canyons (The Moon-Eyed Horse), his camping around the Havasupai tribal lands and his temporary entrapment on a cliff face there (Havasu), the discovery of a dead tourist at an isolated area of what is now Canyonlands National Park (The Dead Man at Grandview Point), his attempt to navigate the Maza area of the Canyonlands National Park (Terra Incognita: Into the Maze), and his ascent of Mount Tukuhnikivats (Tukuhnikivats, the Island in the Desert) are recounted. But now they are gone, some six or seven hundred years later, though not as a race extinguished: their descendants survive in the Hopi, Zui and other Pueblo tribes of Arizona and New Mexico. Mrs. Husk survived, even after the remains of her husband and her lover were found, and with her two little daughters went back home to Texas. GET OUT OF YOUR MOTORIZED VEHICLE, GET ON YOUR HORSE, MULE, BICYCLE OR FEET, AND COME ON IN. Not satisfied with the enormous silt trap and evaporation tank called Lake Mead (back of Boulder Dam) they have created another even bigger, even more destructive, in Glen Canyon. This duality ultimately allows him the freedom to prosper, as "love flowers best in openness in freedom."[22]. Today, Desert Solitaire asks if any of our incalculable natural treasures can be saved before the bulldozers strike again. Print Word PDF This section contains 489 words (approx. Download to read offline. Instinctively he crawled deeper in among the roots of the tree and clung there with his good arm and both legs as the deluge smashed over him. I didnt want to move. Other considerations come to mind. But the love of wilderness is more than a hunger for what is always beyond reach; it is also an expression of loyalty to the earth, the earth which bore us and sustains us, the only home we shall ever know, the only paradise we ever need if only we had the eyes to see. Desert Solitaire by Edward Abbey Rosetta, 2011 Purchase on Amazon.com Desert Solitaire describes Abbey's life during three seasons as a park ranger in southeast Utah. I slid from the saddle and led my pony to the east side of the nearest boulder and tied him. What little I can see of the sky between the high and almost interlocking walls of the canyon looks cloudy, promising rain. In addition, the stick had enabled me to reach a higher section of the S-curved chute, where the angle was more favorable. Once this thing gets going the place warms up fast, in a dense unhealthy way, with a layer of heat under the ceiling where my head is and nothing but frigid air from the knees down. The horses shuffled slowly through the dead leaves, ripping up the grass with their powerful, hungry jaws a solid and pleasing sound. The A.E.C. Go on, have a look, Now you just relax, Moon-Eye old boy. Onyx and sardonyx. At night the mammals come deer, bobcat, cougar, coyote, fox, jackrabbit, bighorn sheep, wild horse and feral burro each in his turn and in unvarying order, under the declaration of a truce. I dont know about Waterman but am certain that I could never climb that far up a rope myself. Weve forgotten to keep a close track of time, have no clock or calendar, and no longer know for certain exactly how many days and nights weve been on the river. We refuse to think about it. The massive forms jostle and grate, ions collide, and the sound of thunder is heard over the sun-drenched land. (The claims lay far away beyond the rivers, more than a hundred miles by road, including some fifty miles of jeep trail and the last ten miles where there was no road or trail at all.) Every man, every woman, carries in heart and mind the image of the ideal place, the right place, the one true home, known or . In the doctrine of the geologists with their scheme of ages, eons and epochs all is flux, as Heraclitus taught, but from the mortally human point of view the landscape of the Colorado is like a section of eternity timeless. For reply he clenches his right hand, extends the middle finger rigidly and thrusts it heavenward. Again the road brings us close to the brink of Millard Canyon and here we see something like a little shrine mounted on a post. The water and soap dry on my face as I reach for the razor: aridity. I can help him with that question, too, I sometimes think; I have a supply of classic philosophical lore ready to offer at the slightest provocation. Politically unpalatable? You sir, squinting at the map with your radiator boiling over and your fuel pump vapor-locked, crawl out of that shiny hunk of GM junk and take a walk yes, leave the old lady and those squawling brats behind for a while, turn your back on them and take a long quiet walk straight into the canyons, get lost for a while, come back when you damn well feel like it, itll do you and her and them a world of good. Carefully he let the hammer down and put the pistol into the pocket of a light jacket which he sometimes wore. A little later in the season I was able to buy sweet corn, figs and peaches from the Supai. Hed shrug his shoulders, sigh, and take another pull from his Tokay bottle. I relax beneath the sheltering canopy of juniper boughs and gaze out squinting and blinking at a pink world being sunburned to death. There are a number of springs similar to this one in the American desert. This follows from the interesting fact that a motorized vehicle, when not at rest, requires a volume of space far out of proportion to its size. The search for what? Between narrowing walls the river rushes at increasing speed. This little animal lives through dry spells in a state of estivation under the dried-up sediment in the bottom of a hole. But I give part of it back April 15th.. You can also use ILLiad to request chapter scans and articles. I was glad to be getting out of there. Washout ahead: playing the brakes lightly, fishtailing over the sand ripples, I gear down into second, into low and when I hit the new gulch slam the brakes hard and shift into compound low creeper gear to negotiate the rocks and logs strewn over the roadway. Plus a discovery bonus of ten thousand dollars. The folk poetry of the pioneers: Desolation Canyon, Labyrinth Canyon, Stillwater Canyon, Dark Canyon, Happy Canyon, Cohabitation Canyon, Nigger Bill Canyon, Recapture Canyon; Mollies Nipple, The Bishops Prick, Queen Annes Bottom; Dirty Devil River, Onion Creek, Last Chance Creek, Salvation Creek, Moonlight Wash, Grand Gulch; Cigarette Spring, Stinking Spring, Hog Spring, Squaw Spring, Frenchmans Spring, Matrimony Spring, Arsenic Spring; Woodenshoe Butte, Windowblind Peak, Looking Glass Rock, Lizard Rock, Elephant Hill, Turks Head, Candlestick Spire, Cleopatras Chair, Jacobs Ladder, Copper Globe, Black Box; Waterpocket Fold, Sinbad Valley, Beef Basin, Fable Valley, Ruin Park, Devils Pocket, Robbers Roost, Goblin Valley, Soda Springs Basin, Potato Bottom Basin, Cyclone Lane, Buckhorn Flat, Surprise Valley, The Big Draw, Professor Valley, Kodachrome Flats, Calamity Mesa, Upheaval Dome; Poison Strip, Yellowcat, Hidden Splendor, Happy Jack, Rattlesnake, Mi Vida (all uranium mines); Ernies Country, Petes Mesa, Zekes Hole, Pappys Pasture; Pucker Pass (where the canyon puckers up) and Hooray Pass (hooray we made it); Tavaputs, Kaiparowits, Toroweap, Owachomo, Hovenweap, Dinnehotso, Hoskinnini, Dot Klish, Betatakin, Keet Seel, Tes-Nos-Pas, Kayenta, Agathla, Tukuhnikivats; Grand Mesa, Thunder Mesa, Wild Horse Mesa, Horsethief Point, Dead Horse Point, Grandview Point, Lands End; Capitol Reef, San Rafael Swell, Dandy Crossing (a dandy place to cross the river), Hells Backbone, Big Rock Candy Mountain, Book Cliffs; Hondoo Arch, Angel Arch, Druid Arch, Delicate Arch; The Needles, The Standing Rocks, The Maze; Dugout Ranch, Lonesome Beaver Camp, Paria, Bundyville, Hanksville, Bluff, Mexican Hat, Mexican Water, Bitter Springs, Kanab; Bedrock and Paradox; The wind stops, completely, as I finish my lunch. 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